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When compiling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred names. But, nestled prominently among these culinary giants is a modest salonu situated in a distant area of north London.

An Shocking Accolade

This little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I am completely surprised,” says the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that led to their humble place earning such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its original character. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the food, and this eatery certainly delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at many times that figure.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning outside its own doors. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this culinary achievement.